Directed electronics 545t manual

Remove the grill covering the speaker. There are 6 clips, 3 on the left and 3 on the right. Using a small screwdriver, I would have sliped it in between the left side where it meets the side wall of the dash. I would NOT have started on the dash side because of the design of the clips. Working in the front most corner of that side, I would have popped out the clip. Force is not a good idea here as you don't want to bend or break the thin grill. Be careful not to scratch the carpeted area by the porthole as it scratches VERY easily.

It is not the easiest piece to lift up. It requires some patience. After that first clip or two is up, one would need only slide their finger under it to pop up the remaiing clips exposing the front speaker. Be careful not to damage the delicate membrane that covers the speaker. From here, the sensor can be installed just to the RIGHT of the grill, toward the front of the grill, but positioned on the dash itself. There is a crease in the molded plastic of the dash at this point that would hide the tiny black wire well.

You may have to gently notch or sand a small grove in the grill or dash to make room for the wire when you reinstall. Just enough to get everything back nice and flush. I suppose with additoinal thought, one could figure out an alternative location to put the sensor. Naturally, the alternative location may required some further dissassmbly, or who knows, perhaps none at all. Creativity is key here. That's it, the disassembly is complete.

Part III - Wiring it all up. Decide how I will make the conenctions. Now that I have access to everything, wiring is pretty simple. The first decision I had to make was how to connect the wires.

My options were: a. Buy plastic wire connectors that clip on. The advantage is ease of use. I've also never had one fail. The disadvantage is that the wires are all different diameters. Sizing is important since a clip that is too small could cut a larger wire, and a clip that is too large would make a poor or worse intermittant connection. At the very least I would need a multipack.

Solder everything up and cover it up with electrical tape. The advantage is a long term permanent conenction. The disadvantage is a more obvious modification to the stock Prius as well as being more difficult and time consuming.

I chose option a. Not for anything. It has at best a temporary adhesion. That being said, even good quality electrical tape tends to want to unstick in extreme temps the sort you might find in your car on a hot day.

I would use it to wrap a bunch of loose wires together pulling on the tape to give it a SLIGHT stretch as the tape is applied. For that, heat shrink tubing of the correct diameter is essential. It slips over the xposed wire, and with the heat from a heat gun, hair dryer, or solder iron tip, will shrink and form a snug fit that can handle the vibration and heat of a car.

Electrical tape is good to wrap around it, but not in place of it. Pin 4 of connector L48 see picture. Black 12V - Ground Wire - I connected this to the bare metal of the car. Used a bit of sand paper to sand a small area of the paint off the chassis under the dash, cimped on a wire connnector, and screwed it in for a good ground connection. Red 12V constant power - This would be connected to a 12 volt constant source like the big white wire going into the body ECU.

As such, I connected it with the yellow wire above to one side of a switch. I chose the big black wire on the back of the fuses under the dash. I could have chose anything really, including the 12V power receptacle wire. Lastly, i needed to connect the relay. I connected the two wires from the relay to pins 20 and 12 of connector L47 attached to the headlight switch under the steering wheel. I connected the main harness, the relay harness, and the sensor harness to the main auto-headlight ECU from the kit, and attached the kit in the space in front of the main body ECU by the 4 switches left of the steering wheel.

There is a lot of room behind that panel. That's it. Everything works and I couldn't be happier. Here are the pictures of the relay wires and how I connected them to the headlight wire harness from the Prius V.

Here is the picture of where the relay wires are connected to L Now, everything works! If it is daylight, the headlights are off. If I turn on my wipers, the headlights turn on as well.

If I want to disable the t Nite-Lite system Let's say we are at the drive-in, I simply toggle the built in switch I installed here Big thanks to Hawkmoon77 for the original post. If anyone with a Prius V Three has any questions, please feel to ask. Now I have auto-headlights on my Prius V three!

Vitaliy and Chazz8 like this. Vitaliy Junior Member. Would this mod affect warranty at all. I really want to do it, I have t ready. But still on the fence because of warranty concern. Good question. To be honest, I have no idea. The main reason why I didn't hesitate to install the t nite-lite system is because when I purchased the Prius V, I noticed after some inspection at home that the dealership sells a lot of their vehicles with aftermarket car alarm systems installed not OEM.

Toyota is not alone on this. In fact, it is a known fact that other dealerships have that same practice as well Honda, Dodge etc. But, if you are not comfortable installing it then maybe you should wait until warranty has expired. Vitaliy likes this. I actually stopped by dealer yesterday to disable rear gear annoying beeps and asked about that.

The tech said it might void warranty only on where you tapped in. So, if your head lights stop working it's on you, if your navigation or AC stop working - still covered.

My other question is: would it be possible to use existing light sensor to operate t?? I really don't like the idea of having another light sensor on dash.. By the way, where did you install yours??? Can you take a picture of light sensor installed??? Hi i am a new member and tied to do this project following the details from hawkmoon77 and israel and have a small problem.

JPG File size: You do not need the other relay. I cut it out and removed it entirely. Less stuff under your dash to deal with. Thank you for helping me out here atleast i can close up some of the covers and get it back on the road if needed Also, your parking lights should turn on with the one relay that has the green and violet wires. The second relay is needed for the parking lights when you have a car alarm.

KA8 Junior Member. Just got prius III I think and it didn't come with auto headlights. How disappointing. I don't know. I've never had any experience working with the wiring of a Prius III. I suggest you go to the Prius III forum and ask there.

Good luck! Sorry for late response, but this guide works just fine on prius 3. I have a post on this, where there is no "kit" required. Not DRL - but the auto-on at dusk. I learned it from wiring my foglight kit. You must log in or sign up to post here. Show Ignored Content. Dopplerplus and Cl4aub like this. Pickupman , Dec 30, Gotcha, thanks for clarifying between the multi information display and the infotainment display.

I look forward to hearing the results if you purchase another sensor for your Another option I'm going to look into next is finding a way to keep the instrument cluster illuminated when running lights in the DRL mode. Part of the reason I run the parking lights during the day is to see the gauges when it is overcast but I have my sunglasses on for glare. Where is the location of the light sensor? Pickupman , Apr 10, Ohiogarand , Sep 10, To my knowledge based on my original question above, I do not think this mod dims or brightens the navigation screen.

I have an idea to try to connect the guage cluster dimming to the navigation unit but haven't been able to troubleshoot it yet. At a minimum I'm going to be wiring a switch into the radio harness to act as a 'day mode' switch to keep the navigation unit bright when I run my headlights during the day. I still haven't installed this yet, but I plan to make a write up of it when I get to it. Pickupman [OP] likes this. Pickupman , Sep 10, Combination Meter.

Pickupman , Sep 11, Question about the install: 1. You didn't use the toggle switch in your install? Which way would you recommend going? From my research my impression about the headlight switch is that there is no need to replace it. The only differences are whether the switch says 'auto' or 'DRL'.

Is that correct? Great post and thanks for all of the info! Pickupman , Dec 3, Joined: Jan 27, Member: Messages: Had two questions that hopefully will keep me from driving my headlight blaring truck in to a tree No matter what I do the green wire seems to be grounded as soon as I turn on the key. I think my module is bad and not a wiring issue.

I verified this is how my behaved by hooking the blue plug up to a meter. It seemed to match your behavior. According to the instructions these pins disable auto light turn on when the pins are connected. So I assume your goal here is to disable auto lights on any setting other then DRL? So you would leave the switch on DRL to enable auto lights.

I was able to verify it drops to ground even if the plns on the blue plug where shorted together. This doesnt seem correct that this wire is grounded no matter what position my headlight switch is in. The only thing i can think of is there is some safety feature that prevents disabling the auto light that I cant figure out how to get around. I would imagine that if you ground the headlight switch that includes the headlights and the parking lights? Or are they really lit seperatly and putting the switch in headlight just grounds both those wires?

Yes, the auto lights disable in off, parking or headlight positions. So that effectively make the DRL position the Auto position. Green wire from the DEI module should only be grounded when the module is activating the headlights. Note this portion of the DEI instructions: I may have forget to mention this is the original post but if you didn't open the DEI box and cut the red wire loop, then this may explain your issue as it would cause the green wire to ground, since our trucks already have DRL this should be disabled.

Yes the parking and headlights are separate circuits and turning the switch to the headlight position grounds both wires. Pickupman , Feb 10, Thanks so much, will cut that loop tomorrow but I bet this is it as everthing looked good at all the relays etc.. Has anyone here successfully executed this. I got the DEI system and im just looking at wire and black boxes.

I have no idea whats going on. Show Ignored Content.