Sekonic dts software

A large, illuminated LCD panel indicates all functions and measurements. A viewfinder readout enables full operation while spot metering. Memory function and 14 custom settings allow users to tailor its operation to their particular needs. The Sekonic LCine DigitalMaster is the ultimate light-measuring tool for cinematographers and videographers as well as digital still shooters. Offering the most extensive range of fps frames-per-second , cine shutter speeds, and shutter angle settings, it meets and exceeds the demands of Professional Cinematographers and Professional Still Photographers.

Sekonic Corporation Japanprovides the widest range of light measurement devices for photographers around the world. Over the years, worldwide demand for exposure meters resulted in the growth and construction of a new factory in June of So I need to add a -8 light compensation. Now the software knows that this is my mid tone or normal exposure. What shutter angle? Oh yeah degrees right there. That comes in handy again.

Now I click ok. So now I go -4, enter. I change this to , and there we go. Light compensation stays at 0, because I took all of the ND out of the lens. That made it super easy to shoot this profile. However, my shutter has changed to And now I am on my last exposure. A quick little note about this, I think I can only go to Nope, just kidding. So maybe So the lowest that it will let me go is However as you can see, I have a light output correction value of So what do we do?

Well we are going to do a little Tom Foolery here. So we are going to make that a -8, which gets me almost there. Our aperture is at 2. So if I were to click Okay here, I would get a wrong profile created because this is now the same exposure as the So I need 4 more stops to get me to where I need to be at. So now I am 8 stops under for this exposure. I hit Okay. Now all my exposures and metadata are correct. Click Next. Now we go to, drag and drop, yada, yada. La, la, la. And there we go. And now were on to… Hopefully you shot all of this with a tripod which makes the rest of this really easy.

And here is a little funny thing. And yada, yada, help me out a little… anyway, all that to say ignore this. All the profiles that I have created and used over the years using a log format with this profile system has worked well for me.

So just ignore it. So those values that I entered in earlier, , Take a look at them over here. What I want to do now is a bit of customization. So this is what the software created based off of the information that I gave it. However, I want to tweak it a little bit further. So the response here always stays the same. So there is nothing I can do about that. But what I can change are these goal posts. This red goals post is where it has absolutely clipped.

And I can have a bit more of a filmic image if I make sure I expose correctly. So this gives me a bit of a softer roll off here. So I like to build in a little more protection. On the other end, I also like to know where the lowest value is in my exposure range. So right here, yeah, there is a lot more room in the shadow area. I could bring up those values if I wanted, but they are too noisy for me. To give myself even more protection. So I have now adjusted these to fit my own personal preferences.

I will have additional room in the shadows, and I should also have a nice roll off into the highlight area. So yeah, there is a lot more dynamic range between the red posts, but the green posts keep me safe as far as the crucial detail.

You may or may not agree with my own modifications. So modify at your own will. I like the profiles I created, so those are the ones that I use. Which is great because you always know that you have a reliable light meter to take your exposure readings or to prelight your set. If you have any comments or questions, leave them in the comment section below. And then come join me in the next video.

Unfortunately not at this time. In this specific example, yes. I recommend using the default settings and not changing anything. The only time I would change anything, is if I was planning on changing it during the post process. Otherwise, stick with the default settings. When you export out the still from the editor you are using, it should export it out in its source color profile, and Photoshop should recognize that. For some odd reason I dont have selected profiles to the right in my software and cant transfer my profile to light meter.

Hi Ryan. I notice that your downloadable profile links are broken. Any chance you can provide a working link for the C mark ii profile? Thanks Ryan. I really need a tutorial on exactly how to expose for these with the camera.

Im stuck. What lens are you using? For example, if you 0 is at 5. Peter, the links should be working now. Please try the downloads again and let me know if they work for you. Great work Ryan! Do you have a downloadable prores profile or Blackmagic pocket camera?

Would RAW be a separate profile on the meters well? All of the profiles I have available for download are on this page. That way I know for sure that the profile matches what the camera is delivering.

Would you recommend one over the other, and why? My perfect meter would be a blend between the two meters. Which one you choose really depends on your needs and style of using a meter. It is big, bulky, and not as accurate as the one on the Cine. If you are only going to use the incident meter, than go with the If you want to use both, than the Cine is the meter to get. You told me to come here. Is this something that you can post? Thanks Ryan, I await it with eager anticipation.

Burnprocessmedia, the links should be working now. Great resources Ryan! Thanks for your work here. I would love to download the Arri Alexa camera profile but it keeps telling me it has failed because of a Server Problem. I tried what Tim said above and it didint make a difference. Any help here would be appreciated!

Hey Jon, the links should be working now. I have managed to over expose by roughly 5. Settings are 1. Any tips? Jake post towards the top had the same question. Checkout my reply to him for an example. Basically you have to figure out a way to increase and decrease light levels. For my Still life shooting. Having Canon 5D Mk-3 with f4. Yes it is more money, but it works and is simple to use. I made a few dts profiles for the bmcc and some lenses.

Now if i meter the same spot with the diferent profiles set in the meter, every metering is exactly the same. First thing I would do is to make sure the numbers are entered into their correct fields. Assuming that is correctly done, then yes, I would expect the results to behave like you assume. There will be different readings for different lenses. However, the differences may not be big enough for you to notice depending on how your meter is set up.

In either case, the differences should not be that huge- I would be surprised if one reading was 2. Hi Ryan Can not download profiles from your site. Hey Artyom, the links should be working now. Great lesson Ryan. Things like what kind of lighting, deciding what to start with for your 0EV exposure, calculating combos for EV changes and other random Ryan expertise would be a great compliment to this video.

Tim, thank you for your reply. When I connect. I click on the update button, it goes Grey but nothing happens. I rebooted computer. Same results. We dig into the detail The Nikon Z mm F2. With a versatile focal length range and a fast aperture for low light photography and blurry backgrounds, this lens promises sharp imagery and smooth bokeh with minimal aberrations.

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